I really wish I had a digi cam so I could upload photos. Truth is- I haven’t taken much pictures at all on this trip. But regardless, it would have been nice to upload a few images. My darling friend, the talented aspiring photographer, is now posted in Thailand through her job. She has created a blog and will post her pics up on it. If you love photography and want to know about her adventures in Thailand, check out: shonc.blogspot.com. I will be joining her soon =)
I left Bangalore on Mon, Jan 15 at 7:30pm on the Howrah Express train to Kolkata. The Indian railway system really needs it own "Dummies" book! You cannot just walk into a station and expect to leave with a ticket. You have to either put in a booking or a reservation. Confirmation is not guaranteed. Its complicated…I don’t quite get it yet myself. Anyway, I went Sunday at 1PM to the Yeshyampur station to get tix in to AC sleeper class. At the counter the guy tells me that I will #6 on a waiting list for Mondays train. I quickly tell him its an emergency and I have to catch a flight in Kolkata on Wed afternoon. So, the he puts me on a Tatkal waiting list and that puts me at # 2 on a 3 tier AC sleeper class. Tatkal means—I learned later—an emergency. Each train has a particular # of berths reserved for emergencies. On Monday at 2pm my ticket was confirmed. If it didn’t get confirmed, I would have to go back and cancel my ticket for Rs. 20 and re-book or get 80% refund. Luckily, I didn’t have to worry about all that. Why am I taking a 40 hr train instead of a 1 hr flight to Kolkata? It’s the curse of a limited budget and no constraints on my time. A flight was going to cost me Rs. 6,000 (~$135) and the train cost me Rs. 1,700 (~$40). I had no appointments to keep and traveling through Madhya Pradesh and Orissa on the train seemed like a fun idea. It was also AC and a sleeper car, so it should be pretty comfortable as long as I am not stuck with a crying baby next to me!
Dada helped me pack my bags…I couldn’t fit all my random purchases into my small suitcase so I had a total of 4 items to carry. My over packed suitcase, over packed back pack, 3X2 ft wooden art piece and a handbag of access stuff. So much for being a bohemian traveler!! We get to the station and ladies and gentelmen, we were packed like sardines! There is no separate baggae car, everything you have goes in your compartment and you share that compartment with 5 other folks. I ofcourse have the most # of bags. By the time we had gotten there, all the space under the berths were filled to capacity with small suitcases. Dada decided that I deserved to have my space and pulled out two bags from under the space that was designated to me and Nishu stuffed my suitcase is somehow. The bagpack, art and access bag all shared my seat on the berth. Cozy, very cozy!
The people I shared the berth with: a young woman who worked as a bartender at the Hotel Oberoi and grew up in Darjeeling. We spoke about drinks, vacationing in Darjleeing and Sikim and about the trials and tribulation of being a female traveler (bathroom & smoking issues). She sat across from me, we had the window seat and the bottom berth to sleep in. Next to me was a man from Assam who worked as a marketing/sales person for an incense and scent firm in Bangalore. He was travelling for work. We didn't speak much but was a good guy. Gave me two cigs to share with the other woman and informed that it was illigal to smoke in Madhya pradesh. You would be immidiately ticketed and fined or taken to jail. No smokes are sold at any of the stations. Across from him sat a Konkini guy from Bangaore also a marketting manager. Both these guys were traveling for work. They had the middle berths to sleep in. The last two guys were college buddies on their way to Sikim for vacation. they were fun and clowinsh. They slept a lot and had the top most bunk. Oh, they all assumed i was a an artist and writer since i had the big piece with me and whenever i was really bored i would take out my sketchpad i would draw or write!
Food is not a probem on the train. They have excellent catering service. Waiters walk by every 3 mins selling snacks, chips, sodas, water and magazines. About 3 hrs before mealtime a waiter will come by to take your meal order. They serve chicken and egg biryanis, vegetable and chicken fried rice, chicken roast, curries, dal, rice, chapatti...relatively extensive menu. it tastes good and pretty hygenic, I didn't get sick! Since it was 2nd class, even the bathrooms were clean which was a relief. Last time I travelled on the train, the bathroom was so horrible I waited till we reached our hotel to go!
The last night of our train ride was fun, the Konkini guy was getting off at a station before the rest of us so we all stayed up to kep him company. Our compartment became the place of adda (gathering). all the men that couldn't sleep gathered in our compartment and told jokes all night long and stories that had us in stictches. interesting thing was, no one asked each others names, just professional designation and what was the purpose of trip. It was kind of sad to say bye to them all at the end of the journey. Everyone spoke in english cause i am sure within the group there were 5 diff languges--english and hindi was the common language.
One piece of advice i will leave here...when booking, ask for the topmost bunk. Otherwise, you are stuck waking up at 6am and sitting the whole time. That is if you are being nice to your neighbors that dn't want to lay down the whole trip!
Today I Am
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Howrah Express to Kolkata
Sunday, January 14, 2007
Last day in India
Today is my last day in India. I did my shopping and spent a small fortune on saris and trinkets...and of course food and booze. Nothing really exciting to add or comment on. I never went to the dance classes but did jog as regularly possible for me (every other day.). I didn't go out much other than to shop with didi or party w/ the boys. I cut my trip short and heading to Dhaka to see my family. I enjoyed my time here but I miss my mommy (she is in Dhaka now).
Tuesday, January 9, 2007
Chalk Powder and Fevicol
I was making clay jewelry and trinkets for a little bit but lack of a stable home, I put away everything in storage. Learned today that chalk powder and fevicol mixed with water can be a great medium to create pieces too! Much easier then working and firing clay…
I am getting HUGE!!!
I went to the Institute today and told them I would start classes…the very esteemed Maya Didi (my kathak guru’s guru) pointed out that she failed to recognize me…reason…I had put on a lot of weight! Yes, I know this and acknowledge this fact!
I woke up at 6am and went to yoga and tomorrow I am waking up at 7am to go running at the Sankey tank…Park around a man made lake close by.
Mon / Wed / Fri
6am – 7am Yoga with Didi and Dada and their friends
Mon – Fri
7:00a– 8:00a Jogging at the Park w/ Nishu
4:30p-5:30p Dance class (maybe-don’t really feel much like it)
My First major piece of Art!!
I am not by any means an impulse buyer. But, I saw this piece and all reasoning went out the door and I had to have it! The piece is about 3ft tall and 2 ft wide and entirely made of wood. Its so gorgeous! It looks like a painting – a delicate woman reaching up to pluck flowers from a tree and placing them in her pallu which leaves her chest uncovered (she is wearing a sari blouse!) – so sensual and feminine. The art is that whole thing is made with different colors and types of woods placed together to create this image. Its 3D and each piece individually carved and fitted. Like her face has to two types of wood – one light and other dark for shadows and hair of a darker wood. I will take a pic and place soon to truly appreciate it!
Problem: how do I transport it to Dhaka then to NY w/o spending a small fortune?!
Hotel Moonlight
Its not some shady motel I checked into! It’s actually an awesome Hole in the Wall restaurant in Bangalore that serves the best ‘muslim’ fare. Grilled, roasted chicken…Rows of whole bright red hens are grilled in a rotisserie and legs of lamb just spinning on open flames and dripping with its own fat.
I wanted to take the family out to dinner instead we picked up food at Hotel Moonlight. One whole juicy roasted hen, 4 aromatic chicken biryanis, 2 mouth-watering chicken curries and 5 moist and flaky coin parothas (they are about double the size of a silver dollar). Cost of whole meal: Rs. 350. ($1 = Rs. 44). You do the math!
Desert: Sweet Paans! Yum!
Paan: crushed betel nuts and stuff I don’t know names of all wrapped inside a betel leaf.
Twister & Doctor’s Rx
Sunday, woke up at 1PM after getting back from the pub at the unholy hour of 5AM. Luckily, no hangover. Had very yummy drink: Twister.
What is a Twister?
Shot of vodka
Lime juice – fresh squeezed
Sprite or 7-Up
Splash of cranberry juice
Sounds good, right? For my Luvlies that are abstaining from Alcohol this year—I think it would make a pretty good virgin drink too!
Another good drink—Doctor’s Rx
Learnt it from a friend in NYC but this is what it is:
Warm water
Honey
Mixed with Brandy
Its actually very tasty.
Also learned—eating bananas is a great help with hangovers. Also helps, LOTS of water before passing out! And of course, cold pizza. Dominoes pizza here is so good! The cheese is different and gives it a whole diff flavor!
India has McDonalds (no beef though), KFC, Pizza Hut and Dominoes (guaranteed delivery in 30 mins!) Waiting to see if a Starbucks, Krispy Kreme & Dunkin’Donuts pop up!!
Monday, January 8, 2007
Day to Day in Bangalore
Back in Malleswaram.
I have slept so much over the past few days…its as if all the sleep I was deprived of over the last couple of months finally caught up! I go to sleep at 9PM and wake up at noon!
Didi does not disappoint. She makes the most delicious breakfasts. Its dosas one day, dodaks the next (yummy dosa like variant) or paan pallay (ground rice and ground coconut mixed with water and cooked on a tawa like a dosa eaten with jaggery syrup). And of course the eternal supply of tea =D
One afternoon, I went with didi and her cousin to a restaurant called Neels (Blue). Such a cute place. A high end restaurant that’s set up with 4-5 open bungalows, of course everything is blue. It was so pretty ‘cause the paths had coconut trees and wherever you sit you get great view of the clear Bangalore sky. It doesn’t rain here…its always pleasant! Sunny and warm in day and cool and breezy in the evening. After the buffet lunch and gulab jamuns and ice cream we headed to the aunty’s house for some tea. The aunty’s house was a sight to see! The entrance gates were made of pine wood painted bright red with flowers and greens overflowing. You enter up a short series of steps (lots of wonderful plants hovering) and enter an open architecture. It’s a 3 story house and you can see every floor from the foyer. The furniture was handmade and personally designed with dark mahogany wood. The space was uncluttered, minimalist and clean. So classic...i fell in love with it. Aunty was such a sweet women. She called me sweetie and dear the entire afternoon and we talked about her daughter who is studying at Rutgers! Of all places!! After some more pleasant conversations about best places for saris, coolest place to party for New Years and tea we headed back to Didi’s house.
That evening I went with didi for a visit with an aunt and uncle of hers. The uncle was 80 something and a darling of a man. And the aunty was a perfect host. She showed me around their modest 2 BR flat and I sat down and struck up fun conversation with uncle. We touched arts, social life and politics and by the end of the evening he had declared I was very intelligent and that he had completely fallen in love with me! So sweet – I couldn’t stop laughing! I could see the uncle in his younger days – an intelligent, flirtatious, powerful man that loved to socialize and am sure was quite the ladies man!
The beauty of Bangalore peoples is that 1- everyone (young and old) speaks perfect English and 2- everyone (young and old) is quite modern, progressive and uninhibited.
We came home and had a delicious meal of fish curry and I passed out.
The next day, I stayed in bed till noon and then just put-putted around the house. Napping, watching movies, eating and doing the soduku. I was enjoying down-time and no responsibilities.
Saturday, I woke up at a more decent hour. Navin had the day off and Nishu had nothing planned for the day. So we headed out to lunch at a place called Empire. It’s a chill joint serving roasts, kababs and parothas. Oh! The roast was soo dang good! A warm red color, perfectly charred and so juicy. The kerala paratha was fluffy and sopped it up with some lamb curry buried in coconut and curry leaves. After the meal, I needed something sweet so we headed to an ice cram parlor. I had vanilla ice creams with caramel and cashews. It wasn’t very good at all…when in India, stick to Indian food!
After the ice cream we went to pick up Navin’s fiancé and I got to meet with her parents as well. Her mother was gorgeous! A sight to behold. Fair, petite, slim, proper with a big maroon bindi on her forehead. She fed us some homemade flan—my fav dessert—it was so light! Her father was an army brigadier (dark, tall with sharp features), her mother used to teach French and she was a ranked tennis player! Navin was a ranked badminton player—what a perfect match! She was so sweet and bubbly I could have eaten her up!
Later- like 1am that night after unsuccessful attempts at trying to watch a DVD, we headed out to a pub. Bangalore has a strict curfew of 10pm and no bars open past 11 and no dancing clubs allowed. But, Navin’s friend owned a restaurant where he served liquor and food till 4am. After driving through a deserted city (during the day, the city is famous for horrendous traffic) we arrive at an unlit street. We walk through a dark alley, enter through the back into a kitchen and then enter the restaurant. It was like being at Cheers! Everyone in the place knew one another!
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
12-28-06 in Bangalore (now known as Bengaluru)
As i entered the colony, all the memories rushed back...Diwali with sparklers in the court yard, rangoli on the steps...ahh..nostalgic =) I went straight to my old room. Everything was exactly as I remembered it! By 8:30 am, Didi woke up and made her delicious tea and some breakfast. Then I took a short nap and went out with Navin. We went to eat lunch...yummy desi food!!!! and Indian ice-cream...vanilla here tastes so different! Then we drove around a bit in town and jet lag hit me. Plan was I was going back to the house to take a nap and then we would go out at night for drinks and checkout the tattoo parlors for my next tat. He also drops the news that he got engaged to his girlfriend and to be married in May!! So very happy for him but pissed cause he waited so long to tell me!
I never woke up...I slept from 5:00pm to 7:00am!!!
Finally wokeup, Didi made some tea, dosa and yummy yummy chutney. Dada and I did the Soduko and the boys woke up.
its 12:00pm now...should start getting ready to leave for Goa!!
Heathrow Airport: 11:30am 12/26/06 waiting for connecting to Bangalore
I started packing for my trip at 10:30am for the 8:30pm flight from JFK—those that don’t know—it’s a 1 ½ hour ride from my mother’s house. I was going to take the Airporter shuttle so my mother or my brother wouldn’t have to make the long drive on Xmas day. Airporter was closed and taxis not taking reservations being Xmas and all. So, decided to take train and subway. But, then my brother came over and saw that I was packing a suitcase---it was pretty light—and he felt pity on me and decided to drop me off. So both my brothers drove me to the airport. So nice of them =)
Before I left the house I had already checked-in online for my flight but once at the airport, I still had to stand in a python snake line for 1 hr! What was the convenience of on-line checking in??? The family behind me had the printed boarding pass from on-line and they had to stand on that ridiculous line! Oh well---I checked in my bag and headed for the gate. Was hoping I would get at least an eye-candy for the long flight but none really. I grabbed a sandwich, from a rude vendor that yelled at the customer in front me, and sat to have my first bite of food for the day. Time: 8:00pm. It was a 747 and had arrived late. They started boarding at 8:20 and that’s when I saw my eye candy. Probably in late 20s, dark, long hair (nape of neck), and just such a structured face. He looked like he may be a dancer…regardless had a nice slim body frame. Traveling alone as well. I took my liberties of staring at the features of the eye-candy but its been a long time since I actually started convos. I found my seat- aisle. It was 3 seater by window and an amusing site, the two guys and I were all hooked to our mp3 players and reading a book! None of us spoke to one another and the guy next to me kept having to go to the bathroom. But I wasn’t giving up my aisle seat! I barely had enough room for my legs…no way was I sitting inside!
The flight was delayed by two hours. Thank goodness to Ronak for giving me a book (Waiting by Ha Jini). I would have gone bonkers! I had forgotten my sketch pad and too cramped to write or pull out my laptop. I had lost my eye candy as well =( Also, we were seated behind a baby….a very cranky baby! Finally, the flight takes off—delayed cause JFK was short staffed on account of it being Xmas and the baggages were back logged in security. I was enjoying all the new random music I had uploaded on the i-nano. One of the CDs was Farshad’s band Cryptic Fate (Bangali rock band) –it had one song I liked so far, Onuprerona. The melody is rockin’; have to take a few more listens to understand the Bengali lyrics. Also listened to Fuad’s (Bangali music director) remixes, I really like his style and his explorations of fusing different styles—he does reggae, rock, Bengali folk and classical sounds—all melded together harmoniously! Bangladeshis are coming a long way on the music front! Flight takes off at 10:00pm.
On board movie I watched: The Wicker Man. Very disturbing film.
On board dinner: Beef casserole with mashed potatoes. Eh.
Drink: coke, white wine.
Tried to get sleep---not possible in those tiny little seats! I think I do prefer Kuwait Airways—at least I can get 3 seats to myself and sprawl out for a nap!
Finally landed in Heathrow and found the eye-candy again. Such a cutie! Ended up shopping in duty free and bought a Black Label for dada (the dad of the family I will be staying with) and some After Eight chocolate mints for the family. I am starting to get excited about landing in Bangalore. I am really starting a vacation! Well, a semblance of one anyway!
Now waiting for the connecting flight to Bangalore. Its 12:36pm (London time) and flight is at 1:40pm. I have the window seat this time. My poor legs will give out…my knee and ankle has already started acting up.
I should start writing some end of year notes to friends and family…JFK NY 9:30am on board BA delayed flight to London
12-25-06
Today is my mother’s birthday. My lil brother and I snuck up on her at midnight and woke her up. The woman does not have any wrinkles! Its amazing! We wished her happy birthday and she dozed off back to sleep. The tradition, when we were younger, was to wake her up to breakfast in bed but this year…I was too caught up in packing (of course I waited till the last possible minute!) to make her anything. I was just too damn lazy. My brothers attempted to take her out to lunch but because I was still not packed, they decided to have birthday lunch tomorrow. My mother is truly an amazing woman. She raised three children all on her own and put her self through school.
As I get older, I am realizing I am more and more like my mother. As a young girl, that was the absolutely unacceptable! But as I grow older, I am beginning to be proud to say I am like my mother. Yes, I did inherit most of her neurotics but I do recognize the faults and try my best to form my own identity. My mother is one of those eccentric creatures that are stuck in a time warp. She grew up in the “old” world with all its ideologies, proper-ness and “what will society say” mentality but she has been in this country so long that she is quite independent and could care less what people thought about her lifestyle choices. At the same time, I think she has a difficult time putting her feet in both worlds. As her children, often times we were left confused at conflicting reactions or emotions from her. She was the “coolest” mom. We had no curfews, she didn’t call us 100x a day to ask where we were, didn’t ask how we spend our money—in short—allowed us a lot of freedoms that our peers parents didn’t allow. Yet, we were never took extreme advantages. We did not disappoint her complete trust on us. We have a very volatile relationship with our mother at times, but more often than not, she is our best friend.
I love my mom and want her to find herself and be comfortable with who she is and the choices she makes. Wish that she finds peace from struggling to fit in both worlds. I am proud to be my mother’s daughter and friend. Love you mom, Happy Birthday =)
